Craig DeMartino’s love of climbing began 30 years ago when he learned to climb at a friend’s unconventional bachelor party in Pennsylvania. Since then Craig has traveled and climbed all around the world. After an accident in 2002, through a miscommunication with his partner that resulted in being dropped 100 feet to the ground in Colorado, Craig suffered a shattered right and left heels, broken back that had to be fused for three levels, shattered ankles, broken neck, ribs, punctured lung, and a rare nerve disorder called RSD brought on by the trauma. After multiple surgeries, Craig chose to amputate his shattered right leg below the knee in hopes of returning to climbing and getting his life back.
Once back on the rocks in 2004, Craig became the first amputee to climb El Capitan in Yosemite in under 24 hours, climbing the route Lurking Fear, which is 3,000 feet in 14 hours. The following June, he became the first amputee to climb the Nose, which is the front part of El Capitan and the longest route of 3,100 feet in 13 hours. Also in Yosemite he lead the first All disabled Ascent of El Capitan via Zodiac with Pete Davis and Jarem Frye that became the documentary Gimp Monkeys. He has competed through USA Climbing and placed third in the Paraclimbing World Championships in Paris in 2012 and Spain in 2014. He is a Two Time National Paraclimbing Champion here at home in the US.
Living in Northern CO with his wife of 20 years Cyndy and they’re two kids Mayah 18 and Will 16, all of whom are climbers, they travel and climb around the world but always love coming back to the front range and their home crags and boulders. Craig’s writing appears in Climbing Magazine, the industry leader in the vertical world, on a semi-regular basis where he chronicles his family’s travels and his life after recovery from the trauma. He is also the leading adaptive rock climbing instructor-teaching adults, children and veterans how to climb and return to a full life after heavy trauma.
If you would like to contact Craig DeMartino, please email him at firstname.lastname@example.org or call our office at (303) 679-2770 ext 222.